Dream City: İznik

Rich in legend, İznik has been known as Nicaea since ancient times. It appears that the region owes its present name to the pronunciation of the word ‘Eis’ and ‘Nik’ part of phrase ‘Eis Ten Nikaieon’ meaning ‘to Nicaea’ in Greek.

Archaeological findings in the mounds of Karadin, Çiçekli, Yüğücek and Çakırca reveal that the history of İznik dates back yo the prehistoric period,around 2500 B.C. Before the immigration of Thracian tribes in the 7th century BC, the settlement in the area of today’s İznik was known as Helikare:In the 4th century this settlement became known as Antigoniea following its renovation by the Phrygian Gocernor of the Macedonian Kingdom.After the death of Alexander the Great, Antigoneia was captured by Lysimachus the ex-governor of Thrace and its name was changed to Nicaea, which was ascribed to Lysimachus wife Nike.Later in 293 BC, it was annexed to Bithynian Kingdom:In this period it was decorated with significant architectural structures.Golden coins were also minted in the city, which led to it being known there after as the City The Romans battled with the Bithynian Kingdomof many years and eventually captured the capital Nicaea,and reconstructed it, repairing the damage caused by the earthquake in 123 AD.Again in this period,the city was surrounded by 4970 kilometre city walls including 4 main and 12 subordinate Gates.

A very important center for Christianity,İznik was introduced to Christianity through the efforts of the Apostle St Peter.All the prohibitions relating to Christianity were abolished during the reign of the Emperor Constantine I. In the beginning of the summer of 325, Nicaea had witnessed a very important event for Christianity:the 1st Ecumenical Council which gathered here in İznik in the palace in the present of the Emperor Constantine one of the subjects discusedin the council was the disagreement in the church of Alexandria over the nature of Christ.

According to the thesis of an Alexandrian priest,Arius, Jesus Christ was not eternal, and was subordinate to God the father.This thesis had found many followers in a short time;howewer, it had been opposed by the bishops.After long debate in the Council, the thesis ‘Jesus Christ to be of one substance with the God the Father’ found acceptance, as it is still accepted today.The Council formulated the Nicene Creed and 20 canons as well, as agreed on the date of Easter.İznik also bore witness to the 7th Ecumenical Council in the Ayasofya Church in the Ayasofya Church in 787.During the same period the prohibitions on paintings and statues were removed thanks to the efforts of the Empress Irene.

İznik served as the capital ofboth the Seljuks and Byzantines. In 1331 it was captured by the Ottomans commanded by Orhan Gazi, and in this period it became a centre of art, trade and culture.Some of the famous Sufis like Davud-u Kayseri, Ebul Fadıl Musa and Eşrefoğlu Abdullah Rumilived in this lovely district and left many literary works behind them.The first mosquemadrasa and soup kitchen belonging to the Ottoman Period were all constructed in İznik.In the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries, İznik became an important art centre and the worldfamous İznik tiles and ceramics were produced here.

The historic architectural texture of the district is still alive with its grid settlement plan which has remained since the Hellenistic Period and monumental structures from the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods.

Yeşil Mosque (Green Mosque)

Recognised as the symbol of İznik, the Yeşil Mosque takes its name from the turquoise coloured İznik tiles and bricks of its minaret which are a fine reflection of the Seljuk minaret style in Ottoman art. Built by the architect Haci Musa between 1378 and 1392 upon sthe request of Halil Hayrettin Pasha, this mosque is undoubtedly the most magnificent of the single domed mosques of the Ottoman Period.Its unique minaret is on the right corner of the mosque. While its niche displays rich stone work, its body is covered with blue and green coloured tiles in zigzag mosaic style.

Ayasofya Museum

This museum was once the church which witnessed the 7th Ecumenical Council in 787 a very important event for Christianity. It is located at the point where the roads leading to the 4 main gates in the district centre meet. The church was constructed by the Emperor Justinian over the ruins of the former church dating back to 4th century. However, it was demolished after an eartquake in the 11th century and rebuilt in the shape of a basilica with three naves. Its colourful marble floor mosaics with geometric designs and frescoes depicting saints and apostles are all charming.

Following the conquest of İznik by Orhan Gazi in 1331 this basilica shaped church was turned into a mosque. In the reign of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, it was expanded with a minaret on the front and its walls were decorated by the famous architect Sinan.

City Walls and Historic Gates

The pentagon shaped citl walls that surround İznik are 4970 metres in length. Although these city walls were constructued in the Helenistic era, they have lost all the characteristics peculiar to this era. Only the wall parts constructed in the Roman and Byzantine period have survived to the present. In the 8th century, the city walls were made higher and the bastions were built by using the construction materials brought from the theatre.

The historic gates in İznik were actually constructued as triumphal arches in the reigns of the Emperor Vespasianus (69-79) and Emperor Titus (79-81) and were restored to a large scale in the time of Emperor Hadrian:the city walls were built by connecting these arches to each other. Reflecting the architectural technique and style of the Roman Period, the İstanbul, Lefke, and Yenişehir gates still stand splendid today, although the remaning gate, the Göl Gate is in ruins

Beştaş (Obelisk)

Nişantaşı and Dikilitaş, this grave monument is on the ancient Roman road. Its inscription in Greek reveals that the obelisk was built by C. Cassius Philiscus in the 1st century. It rises over a rectangular prismatic pedestal, and includes five triangular prismatic stones one over the other.

Roman Theater

The ancient theatre spreading over a large area amind the shores of the lake and the Yenişehir Gate was constructed between 111 and 112 during the reign of the Emperor Trajan. It was converted into a mass graveyard in the 13th century. The graveyard was later replaced by the ceramic kilns. Only some part of the cavea (audience section) of the ancient theatre have survived to the present day. It appears that its stones were used as construction materials especially in the restoration of the city walls.

Ceramic Art

İnvolved in architecture during the first half of 3000 BC, ceramics began to be used in Islamic architecture in the 9 th century.

The ceramic art of İznik flourished in the 13 th century when Seljuk architecture was at its peak. In that period, the walls of many mosques, medreses, toms and palaces were decorated with elegant ceramics. Together with the Ottomans , ceramic art gained a new perspective in the 14th century.

The Ottoman ceramics continued the Seljuk tradition in technique and style but they are richer than the Seljuk ceramics in term of their colors and hues.The turquoise and green ceramics, decorating the minaret of the İznik Yeşil Mosque are enchanting examples of Ottoman ceramic art.

Between the 15th and 17th centuries İznik became an important centre for ceramic production.Historic sources confirm that ceramics on the walls of the palaces and other historic buildings in İstanbul were produced here in İznik.

İznik is also the centre of the ceramic Works which are known as Milet, Damascus and Rhodes.Floral motifs such as tulip, hyacinth,pomegranate and carnation are associated with the İznik ceramics which also depict human and animal figures and ships.Their colours are mostly blue, turquoise green and red.

İznik Museum ( Nilüfer Hatun Soup Kitchen)

This important edifice, which today is a museum, was construced by Sultan Murat the 1st in a memory of his mother, Nilüfer Hatun in 1338.Known as the first soup kitchen built with a reserve T-shaped plan,it is a fine example of Ottoman architecture.Its brick and stone work is rich and colourful,designed with three rows of brick and a row of stone.The building served as a soup kitchen until the end of the 19th century;but it was largely destroyed during the Greek occupation in the Indepence War. After having been restored in 1960, the Nilüfer Hatun Soup Kitchen was opened to visitors as a museum.

The Museum collection includes archaeological finds unearthed at the excavations of Ilıpınar,the theatre and İznik kilns together with other items found in İznik and the surrounding area.

Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman works including column capitals,sarcophagi, reliefs,ambos,steles,inscriptions, gargoyles, column tambours, baptismal fonts, baked clay sheets and Islamic grave stones are exheibited in the garden of the museum.In the main hall are prehistoric ceramics, Greek,Roman and Byzantine age ceramics, stone works, glass wares, coins, jewellery, kerosene lamps, and metal works.Byzantine and Ottoman ceramics,kiln equipment,manuscripts, tobacco, money, watches, bowls, guns and rifles, ornaments, utensils, ethnographic artefacts, and Islamic coins are on display in the room leading to the main hall.

Süleyman Paşa Madrasa

Süleyman Paşa Madrasa is the oldest in İznik which has survived to the present day. Orhan Gazi’s son Süleyman Paşa had it built 1332. Included in the category of U- shaped Ottoman Madrasas, it has 11 rooms and a classroom: It walls date back to the first half of the 14th century where as its dome dates from the second half of the 15th century.

Underground Grave (Hypogeum)

This underground grave, found in the Hespekli location of Elbeyli Village, is thought to have been built in the 4th o 5th centuries AD. It is covered by a vault and its ceiling and walls are decorated with typical colourful frescoes of the early period of Christianity.

Dört Tepeler Tumulus

The tumulus is located within the graveyard of Elbeyli Municipality.There are two monumental tombs in it. The first one is near the road and has a rectangular grave room with a dromos (narrow passageway). On both sides of this room are two stone seats. Built oi white marble, the grave room in the other tomb has also a dromos covered by rough stones and trees.

Berber Rock Monumental Tomb

Erected in the memory of the King Prusias the 2nd of Bythia, this monumental tomb dates back to the 2nd century BC, and is a significant example of Helenistic art in İznik.Carved on a large rock piece in the foothills, the tomb with triangular fronton is in the form a sarcophagus